Palawan rewards those who set out early, before the lagoons fill with boats.
From El Nido, wooden bangkas thread between karst towers into water so clear it seems to hold the light.
El Nido or Coron
El Nido is dramatic and lagoon-laced; Coron is wilder, with wreck dives and mountain lakes. Travellers with time should see both, linked by a day-long boat crossing.
When to go
December to May brings calm seas and the clearest water.
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